Dimensions aside it still wouldn't help much. The longer distance it has to travel, the less heat is conducted. Meaning diminishing returns, very quickly. Now add on TOP of that the fact that you're not dealing with a single piece of metal, but rather two or more seperate pieces with only some conduction paste between them, and your gains are insignificant. As I posted above (I really shouldn't leave windows sitting open for that long without refreshing), you're going to want to replace the entire thing if you really want to make big gains, otherwise just improve airflow.Pyrosurfer wrote: Found a 486 heatsink like matt was talking about,
They're pretty cheap, might get 2 of them to put on top of the heat spreader (if you guys think it would help).
EDIT: From the dimensions it doesn't look like it would help much.
Finally
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Someone has to find out how to increase the vcore before you start worrying about building a cooling setup of any significant power.zerotype wrote:I talekd to the author of the english guide I am goign to try to achve speeds of 300mhz.He thinks it mght be possible with TEC's.SO I am going to order some 50quartz and get a few dc build a new case and super cool the fudger.
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You should have enough room that you can just replace the heatspreader altogether. Something like an inexpensive, outdated, small and lightweight aluminum coolermaster. You shouldn't even need the HS fan, if your case fans get a little airflow over the DC's mainboard.
If you have twenty monkeys,
banging randomly on typewriters,
they will in twenty minutes produce the complete source code to World of Warcraft.
banging randomly on typewriters,
they will in twenty minutes produce the complete source code to World of Warcraft.
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Like this one http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDe ... 128&depa=0 ? Shouldn't my heatspreader with modifications as shown on the page, plus an extra case fan suffice?
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Way overkill. I said outdated, like their junky old ones. You'll probably be fine without replacing it, I just think that since you have all that room, using some silver thermal epoxy and an aluminum heatsink would be advantageous. I was thinking more like this, something cheap. You don't even need the fan, as long as the fins are facing the right way and it has air flowing over it.
If you get a chance, measure the SH4's surface. Because if you feel that 60x60mm is too big, you could probably get a northbridge cooler, but they have different surface sizes, and you want the whole thing making good contact.
If you get a chance, measure the SH4's surface. Because if you feel that 60x60mm is too big, you could probably get a northbridge cooler, but they have different surface sizes, and you want the whole thing making good contact.
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Benimaru, I was kinda confused about that myself until kamjin explained it. There are GND and +5V pins which should be connected to your dcs psu, the other pin is the outputted square wave that is connected under the leg of the pll. These oscillators produce a square wave from a voltage source.
I measured my bay temperature, its 75F with extra case fan, 83F without. Maybe I could get by without the extra fan on.
I ordered some parts from Jameco yesterday. Here's what I ordered:
40mhz crystal
Various switches
6 pin aux power connector for 3.3V from psu
3 relays, so I can switch 3 DC voltage sources with one switch
Battery pack, for Battery Replacement so I don't lose my dc's time.
2x 25 pin male and female dsub connectors for easy repairs
15 pin M and F dsubs
9 pin M and F
3 red 2100 mcd leds, plus resistors
I measured my bay temperature, its 75F with extra case fan, 83F without. Maybe I could get by without the extra fan on.
I ordered some parts from Jameco yesterday. Here's what I ordered:
40mhz crystal
Various switches
6 pin aux power connector for 3.3V from psu
3 relays, so I can switch 3 DC voltage sources with one switch
Battery pack, for Battery Replacement so I don't lose my dc's time.
2x 25 pin male and female dsub connectors for easy repairs
15 pin M and F dsubs
9 pin M and F
3 red 2100 mcd leds, plus resistors
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I think it would. But that all depends on what you mean by "proper", because I'm thinking compressor, insulating compounds, etc. ![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_e_biggrin.gif)
But matt is right, it would have to be a really, really rock-solid source of power. I was actually hoping that there would be a way to use the existing source of power for the vcore, and just modify the hardware to put out a teeny bit more.
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_e_biggrin.gif)
But matt is right, it would have to be a really, really rock-solid source of power. I was actually hoping that there would be a way to use the existing source of power for the vcore, and just modify the hardware to put out a teeny bit more.
If you have twenty monkeys,
banging randomly on typewriters,
they will in twenty minutes produce the complete source code to World of Warcraft.
banging randomly on typewriters,
they will in twenty minutes produce the complete source code to World of Warcraft.
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Maybe you'd be lucky and find a ressistor, measure it. Do some calulations and you could work out what you'd need to change it to and what voltage that would give.use the existing source of power for the vcore
Im going to attempt 240Mhz over Xmas hopefully, i'll atleast try to get some high quality close ups