I need help getting Capcom vs snk to work.

Discussion of topics related to licensed games, software hacking/modification, prototypes, and development kits belongs here. Includes topics related to emulating the Dreamcast console on your computer or on another gaming console. Discussion of Reicast should go in the Official Reicast Forum.
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I need help getting Capcom vs snk to work.

Post by Raztat »

when i put it in it loads the dreamcast intro screen then freezes. Whats wrong? i tried cleaning with toothpaste, it didnt work.
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Post by royhubbs »

burnt or original?
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Post by Raztat »

original
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Post by doragasu »

Is the disc scratched?
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Post by Raztat »

they are light scrathches nothing big or any thing.
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Post by Caboose »

is it cracked maybe? Even the smallest fracture can ruin a disc.
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Post by doragasu »

The fail looks like your DC is having problems to read some sectors of the disc. If it is not cracked/scratched maybe you should try to boot it with other DC to get sure of what is really not working (it could be your GD-ROM reader or the disc).
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Post by Raztat »

i dont have another DC to test it with, but i looked closely at it and it seems to have a ton of light scratches every where, and 1 big smudge if you hold it up to the light. I think that is the problem.
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Post by HomerCIDAL »

Another thing to consider is if you have used your DC to run homebrewed apps, the drive can get stressed by reading certain parts of the disc. I've heard that it will shorten the lifespan of your system to run emulators and homebrewed apps, but that is only what I've heard and have not experienced that myself.
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Post by doragasu »

HomerCIDAL wrote:Another thing to consider is if you have used your DC to run homebrewed apps, the drive can get stressed by reading certain parts of the disc. I've heard that it will shorten the lifespan of your system to run emulators and homebrewed apps, but that is only what I've heard and have not experienced that myself.
That's BS! What really can shorten the lifespan of your DC is playing backups, but homebrewn doesn't stress the GD-ROM reader because most of the times it only loads the game/emulator one time and then only a bit of ROM/data loading. Then the GD-ROM reader stops and is not used while you play. Commercial games tend to do a lot more loading than homebrewn and when burned in a low density disc (compared with a GD-ROM) and without a proper structure can stress the reader.
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Post by Caboose »

Yeah, most homebrew apps are read once by the GD-ROM and then are loaded into the ram.
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Post by Raztat »

i went to take it back and they said they had to clean it for me and then see if it would work, well it didnt i got to make a second trip there tomorow.
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Post by crc73 »

You mentioned a ton of small scratches and a smudge. Where is the smudge? Is it within the inner circle of data (which I understand contains info for booting up disks).

I have a disk which won't boot at all (v. pissed 'cause it's 18 Wheeler, and I love that game), and there is a smudge on the inner ring of data. There are plenty of light scratches too on the outer portion, but I don't think there are the cause. I think if the disk won't boot, then the problem is probably due to marks in the inner circle. My disk is a PAL, in a PAL case, and I think during transportation, the disk came loose, and got marked with the teeth which are more vicious than regular CD-case teeth.

I have some disks that are marked and scratched worse than this one, but I guess it's not an exact science. From what I understand of CD error correction/jitter/etc., you could just be very unlucky and a disk with just one scratch in the wrong place could render a CD useless, whereas a disk with tons of scratches could work fine. There are probably a lot of factors involved (scratch length, depth, etc), so I guess the bottom line is to just look after your disks.

I wish that Sega had a facility where you could send in your faulty disks, and get a brand new disk for a nominal charge. Would be a sign of appreciation and regard for it's loyal DC fans like ourselves.
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Post by Caboose »

I wish that Sega had a facility where you could send in your faulty disks, and get a brand new disk for a nominal charge. Would be a sign of appreciation and regard for it's loyal DC fans like ourselves.
It would cost too much money for sega to do that.
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Post by crc73 »

doragasu wrote:... and when burned in a low density disc (compared with a GD-ROM) and without a proper structure can stress the reader.
I've always wondered about that - what about playing regular music CDs? I was under the impression that data CD's and music CD's had the same spacing throughout the disk.

Just looking at back-ups of GD-ROMs on CD-ROMs, I can understand the stress, as I understand GD-ROMs are designed with the layout of data optimised for reading during play (although with some of the loading times and GD-grinding I've seen in some soccer games, I wonder if all manufacturers ticked that box...).
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Post by Skynet »

If anyone is worried about playing emus and homebrew they can always dummy the CD. It fills up the rest of the space pushing all the readable data to the end of the cd, iirc. I've seen it on someone elses dc with backups. The grinding noises coming from his DC were terrible before placing a dummied cd in. So I'm sure the same benefits would be seen in a homebrew game or emu. That is if the CD is being constantly accessed all the time and not just loaded once and that's the end of that.
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Post by doragasu »

crc73 wrote:
doragasu wrote:... and when burned in a low density disc (compared with a GD-ROM) and without a proper structure can stress the reader.
I've always wondered about that - what about playing regular music CDs? I was under the impression that data CD's and music CD's had the same spacing throughout the disk.
Music CDs doesn't stress the DC because the lens are put on a track and move really slowly while the disc is playing. Backups make the lens move up and down all the time, making loading times larger and stressing the reader. The density issue also makes loading times larger.
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Post by Nick »

Check for surface scratches on the label side. That's where all the data is. Get a hair line one up there, and the disc is finished.

Generally, scratches on the bottom don't do anything, as there is no data. The exception to that is radial scratches and deep gouges.
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