any links to this project/details? I searched this forum and didn't find any leads......thanks!

hehe, yeah I'm half done with a similiar project, turn the front load into a top load.....I'll upload some pics once I get the dust off the project, my aim was to try and eliminate the spring action connection via some hard wiring/ribbon, thats where I'd left off

Controller fix (on 2 machines)

Case painting

hmmmmm.......very interesting, thanks for posting

hmmm... DC blown controller port fix SNES - highly technical SFC cart mod :p Genesis - first generation- language switch mod and LED change NES - Half completed "turn the toaster into a top load" Mod ( I gotta get this one finished) NES - Cart connector repair NES - The Convertable "S...

The FAQ is looking great so far, nice job!

Holy Shinto!!!!! Did I read the post from Georgie correctly?!?!?! Talk about your hardware MODs !!

Thats a streamlined circuit now!

I@N, ure really somethen, i would nver fudge woith a $300 piece of eqipment on the fist day. I hear ya there 007, I used to be the same way, but after mucking around enough with things here and there, you get some POTENTIALLY DANGEROUS confidence and start being more "risky" :) So far so ...

This will be very handy here, make it good so it is a sticky post! I'd contribute the info in my post, and replies by Oz and tikitom regarding the variations in resistors, and the possiblity of using fusable or resettable resistors: http://www.dcemulation.org/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=8688 just have the...

its almost always the fusable resistor on the controller port PCB.....do a search on these boards and there's plenty to read in regard to this

yeah, too much heat on the board....

did you warm up the iron before applying it? a lot of ppl will tend to warm it ON the board, which isnt too good

the power supply board? All thats really holding it in place is the power leads coming from below (after all screws are out of it) Its a tight fit, so you'll have to use a little *umph*, just try to keep the pull near the metal things in question so you dont put a lot of stress on the power supply P...

tikitom, thanks for the info

Hell I'll pick up some of those and give it a try, I'll let you guys know how it turns out

*fingers crossed*

TheDumbAss wrote:heh... well... I cant be blamed for not catching this.

Hehe, no blame ment towards anyone..........just noticed something odd and thought it was worth pointing out.

Anyways, with a name like dumbass, even if you didn't catch it, who'd blame ya?

ok another follow up Both models are HKT3020's Mine has the UD And Made in Japan in lower left of back tag, friends has WK and Made in China. Yes they ARE fusable resistors, blue body does signify this and upon removal of the bad part, on the PCB it has the graphic for fuse ( kinda like a tilde ~ ) ...

damnit! I was just talking to a guy I work with who knows his stuff with electronics and he said pretty much the same thing....with the "F1" designation on the PCB and he thought he remembered something about blue bodies....but he wasn't 100% sure on that hmmmmm... I'm working now, but I'l...

Well I cracked open my friends DC (figured I'll use his as the test:) Since I couldn't get any 4.7 Ohm, I picked up some 10's to run in parallel....remove the controller port PCB, take a look at F1 resistor and its bands aren't what everyone has been saying (?) This DC has orange / white / gold /gol...

Nice arcade cab hack Pipa, I was thinking of doing the same thing....you went with the arcade monitor?

I lost the original thread, but I just wanna say thanks to ppl on this board. A friend came by with a "dead" DC, well it boots but no response from any controllers...asks if I can take a look at it for em. Well at one point one of his controllers got mixed with mine and then *Pffff* my con...