Finally

Alexvrb · Post by **Alexvrb** » Tue Dec 07, 2004 12:52 pm

Ack, maybe it was safer when the guide wasn't understandable. This really isn't for beginners.

Vchat20 · Post by **Vchat20** » Tue Dec 07, 2004 1:46 pm

i dont think its THAT hard, but it does take some common sense (like READING) and it is better you get some other mods under your belt first before attempting this.

Matt · Post by **Matt** » Tue Dec 07, 2004 2:21 pm

If you've read it, you got all the tools ready, you understand it and you can solder quite well...I can't see it being hard atall

Pyrosurfer · Post by **Pyrosurfer** » Tue Dec 07, 2004 8:54 pm

It also helps to have a broken dc mobo to practice on.

Morphv2 · Post by **Morphv2** » Wed Dec 08, 2004 12:11 pm

Vchat20 wrote:note: noobs need not apply.

Well, we are only noobs until we learn how. Then we are not noobs. So, in effect, noobs need experienced people so they won't be noobs

.

SO, HOW do I remove the cover from the CPU?

Vchat20 · Post by **Vchat20** » Wed Dec 08, 2004 1:25 pm

like i said in my above post. get some other, more easier mods under your belt first and then you should have the knowledge and experience to do this mod without someone holding your hand through the whole process.

Pyrosurfer · Post by **Pyrosurfer** » Wed Dec 08, 2004 2:27 pm

Get a soldering iron and multimeter. Practice doing some mods for a month or so. After that you should be able to do it.

Morphv2 · Post by **Morphv2** » Thu Dec 09, 2004 11:59 am

I DO do mods. This is simply my first overclocking procedure. My DC has an external fan, a blue LED, and an internal VGA switch. I simply would like to clarify as to how to remove the cover from the CPU.

dcmodder · Post by **dcmodder** » Thu Dec 09, 2004 12:13 pm

ummm... just lift it off (take off the psu, controller board, and gdrom and lift it off.)

kingbuzzo · Post by **kingbuzzo** » Thu Dec 09, 2004 4:15 pm

Morphv2 wrote:I DO do mods. This is simply my first overclocking procedure. My DC has an external fan, a blue LED, and an internal VGA switch. I simply would like to clarify as to how to remove the cover from the CPU.

heh, you said "do do".

Morphv2 · Post by **Morphv2** » Fri Dec 10, 2004 8:06 am

I already know how to access the motherboard, but the CPU chip still has the black plastic casing over it and its like frikkin superglued to it.

Post by **Quzar** » Fri Dec 10, 2004 11:48 am

black plastic casing? does it happen to say Super H on it?

Alexvrb · Post by **Alexvrb** » Fri Dec 10, 2004 12:40 pm

ROFL...

just... just ROFFLES!

This is why we shouldn't let people get ahold of these guides unless they sign a disclaimer and mail it in. I mean do half the people who do this stuff really understand what they're doing, and what it might imply for their DC?

Matt · Post by **Matt** » Fri Dec 10, 2004 4:06 pm

This is why we shouldn't let people get ahold of these guides unless they sign a disclaimer and mail it in. I mean do half the people who do this stuff really understand what they're doing, and what it might imply for their DC?

Sometimes I very much doubt it

Zealous zerotype · Post by **Zealous zerotype** » Fri Dec 10, 2004 5:23 pm

Looks kinda cool Ima order oen and buy me some new dreamcasts this weekend.

Pyrosurfer · Post by **Pyrosurfer** » Fri Dec 10, 2004 8:53 pm

This looks like a good cooling solution for people who want to go up and beyond 240mhz.

https://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/store ... tId=123014

I don't see how it would work, it doesn't appear to have any moving parts. I can't get the datasheet to load either. Its an active device that will cool down to -30C depending on outside temperature.

bizzle · Post by **bizzle** » Fri Dec 10, 2004 8:56 pm

Pyrosurfer wrote:This looks like a good cooling solution for people who want to go up and beyond 240mhz.

https://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/store ... tId=123014

I don't see how it would work, it doesn't appear to have any moving parts. I can't get the datasheet to load either. Its an active device that will cool down to -30C depending on outside temperature.

That won't work. The other side gets EXTREMELY hot. They are mainly used in water-cooled systems.

Pyrosurfer · Post by **Pyrosurfer** » Fri Dec 10, 2004 9:09 pm

Ah, I see, makes sense. I once did a chem project that did the opposite, took hot and cold water and made an electrical current.

Found a 486 heatsink like matt was talking about, https://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/store ... tId=120913
They're pretty cheap, might get 2 of them to put on top of the heat spreader (if you guys think it would help).

EDIT: From the dimensions it doesn't look like it would help much.

Alexvrb · Post by **Alexvrb** » Fri Dec 10, 2004 9:17 pm

Yes, thermoelectric aka Peltier cooling solutions are not at ALL appropriate. The one side is cold, but the other side gets very hot, so you need something to pull the heat off, and fast. Like a highend copper and heatpipe solution, or watercooling, or better. All depending on how powerful a peltier you buy and what you're cooling. None of that will fit into a DC or is really useful anyway. After all, you're going to run into core limits much sooner than you run into heat problems with any sort of advanced cooling regardless.

I'd start looking at 1U copper solutions. Maybe without a fan, and you just ensure adequate ventilation via an intake by the PSU and an exhaust fan (which you already have, and could possibly replace with a larger fan). If the heatsink itself has a fan, now you're looking at having to figure out the the heck the air is going to move and how you get it out of the case efficiently (without major blockage or contested airflow).

Zealous zerotype · Post by **Zealous zerotype** » Fri Dec 10, 2004 9:19 pm

I talekd to the author of the english guide I am goign to try to achve speeds of 300mhz.He thinks it mght be possible with TEC's.SO I am going to order some 50quartz and get a few dc build a new case and super cool the fudger.